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Sugar in Chocolate
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We recently received an email inquiry regarding substitutes for refined sugar in chocolate, such as evaporated cane juice or brown rice syrup. Here is our response:
"Cioccolato strives to educate its
customers on the wide variety of products we import and sell. We primarily
specialize in chocolates imported from Europe,
and currently also feature a Colombian brand and a few specialty domestic
chocolates.
European chocolatiers and chocolate consumers typically have different concerns
than consumers in the United
States. As you may already be aware, health
concerns in particular that have developed here in the US have not
been quite as much of a concern to Europeans, such as obesity. Imported
chocolate and other food items have only recently begun to bear the
now-standard Nutrition Facts label that is required on our food packaging, even
though they have been providing ingredients lists on their products for some
time.
A primary concern of many premier European chocolatiers is that of authentic
traditional ingredients. Dark chocolate only truly needs three ingredients:
cocoa mass (sometimes called cocoa powder or just cocoa), cocoa butter, and
sugar. The growing demand for cocoa butter from the beauty industry has put a
strain on some chocolatiers, who have turned to other vegetable fats for use as
substitutes in their chocolate. This is considered a stigma among premier
chocolatiers, who have begun to emphasize their use of real cocoa butter.
Pure cane sugar, or refined sugar, has been a traditional ingredient in the
same way real cocoa butter has. The producers of chocolate who would never
think of adding vegetable fat to replace cocoa butter in their chocolate would
similarly never think of adding something like high fructose corn syrup, or
even a healthier option like rice syrup, to replace cane sugar - the emphasis
is placed on the recipe and the intended nuances of flavor. Some dark chocolate
also contains vanilla, and again the preference would be for natural vanilla
instead of vanillin, which is a substitute.
The presence of cane sugar in European chocolate is not a concern for most
European consumers, who tend to eat more balanced diets and/or lead more active
lifestyles. Chocolate is more likely to be enjoyed in moderation, even if this
translates to a small serving of chocolate every day.
We do carry two kinds of sugar free dark chocolate intended for diabetics, with
maltitol and lactitol added as sugar substitutes. These substitutes do
occasionally cause stomach upset, but are included in the most popular sugar
free brands available domestically.
There are also dark chocolate bars with very high cocoa content on our shelves,
from 75% to 85% and even 100%. These percentages refer to the amount of the
ingredients that come directly from the cocoa bean, leaving only 15% or less to
sugar, and of course the 100% bar has no sugar or any sweetener whatsoever.
While every chocolatier has their own unique recipe, an average three ounce bar
of 70% dark chocolate will contain around 20 grams of sugar total, so a single
one ounce serving would only contain around seven grams of sugar. 70% cocoa
content is the recommended minimum percentage if a person wants to gain the
health benefits of the antioxidants in the cocoa, so higher cocoa content
translates to more antioxidants and less sugar.
Finally, to come directly to your question, all our chocolates contain either
cane sugar, a diabetic sugar substitute, or no sugar at all. It is more likely
that you will find the sugar substitutes you seek in domestic brands of
chocolate or chocolates produced specifically for health food or organic food
stores.
Our intention is to bring the chocolates of Europe
to the discerning American consumer, like yourself. We sincerely hope you will
contact us if you have any further questions about the products we sell, and
salute your interest in making chocolate a part of a healthy lifestyle."
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Cioccolato, Chocolat, Part 1
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Cioccolato, Chocolat, Part 1
This entry was posted on 2/26/2007 2:21 PM and is filed under L'Artigiano, Italian Chocolate, French Chocolate, guido gobino. " Cioccolato" is Italian for chocolate, and
"chocolat" is French, of course. Do you think of Italy and France when
you think of imported chocolate? Most people would probably make the
foreign chocolate connection with Switzerland or Belgium. But it's
February, and a certain holiday associated with romance and chocolate
is approaching. Italian and French are probably the most romantic of
the Romance languages. Why waste your time and money on generic gifts
at Hallmark or Godiva (owned and operated by the American soup giant
Campbell's) when you can spend the next week learning a few charming
phrases in Italian or French to murmur to your sweetie when you present
an original, thoughtful gift of the finest Italian or French chocolate? Today I'll review some Italian options, and tomorrow, we'll venture to France. Torino,
Italy is home to one of the most famous little hazelnut chocolates in
the world, with that distinctive triangular shape and gold wrapper. Giandujotto Classico
by Guido Gobino are dangerously addictive - much like Nutella, which
has a similar flavor. Giandujotto are firmer and richer than any
hazelnut spread, and carefully portioned into pieces just right for two
delicious melt-in-your-mouth bites - perfect for sharing with someone
special. I've already mentioned L'Artigiano's hot chocolate
blends, but they also produce gourmet chocolate bars and truffles.
Their award-winning Sale Dolce
(sweet salt) bars in milk and dark chocolate are simply exquisite. If
you like chocolate covered pretzels or peanuts, (or even chocolate
covered potato chips!) you like the taste combination of salty and
sweet. Cut out the middleman (the pretzel, peanut, etc.) and try some
of the best artisan chocolate from Italy with sweet salt of Cervia
blended in perfect proportion so as not to overpower each other. Another unique taste experience from L'Artigiano can be found in a small ivory box containing their Formaggio di Fossa e Albana Passito truffles
(or, as they call them, "tesori," or treasures). These little dark
chocolate confections contain aged cheese and dessert wine - a savory
combination to satisfy a connoisseur, or maybe just someone with an
adventurous palate. Amore! |
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Chocolate Tasting Party
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How to do a Chocolate Tasting by Kristen
Chocolate tasting is an exercise that involves all five senses. Simply unwrapping a bar and appreciating its delicate structure is a tactile enjoyment. The packaging and, more importantly, the look of the bar itself, can be a feast for the eyes. As you break off a piece of the bar to eat, you should hear a distinct snap if the bar is well-tempered. Of course, the aromas and tastes of chocolate are well loved by many and need no introduction - but perhaps a few more details can help you enjoy your chocolate experience to the fullest extent.
To prepare for a chocolate tasting, everyone should be well fed - not stuffed and not starving. You will need enough restraint to allow the chocolate to literally melt in your mouth. Apple slices and sparkling water can help clear the palate after a meal and between tastings. Chocolates should be sampled in order of increasing cocoa content or boldness of flavor, and, even though chocolate is best stored between 61 and 64 degrees, it should always be tasted at room temperature. Many people enjoy drinking wine while eating chocolate, but this should be avoided during a chocolate tasting, as should strongly scented flowers and perfumes. A quiet, peaceful environment is recommended so you can focus completely on the tasting. Also, have pens and paper available to make tasting notes you can refer to later and compare with others.
To begin, many tasters do take into consideration the look of the chocolate. How would you describe its color and sheen? Some possibilities include Auburn, Black, Brick, Bronze, Brown, Burnt Sienna, Buttery, Crimson, Dull, Glossy, Mahogany, Muddy, Plum, and Purple. Feel free to describe the color any way you feel is most appropriate.
Take a whiff: gently rub a section with a finger or thumb to release extra scent. Allow your mind to wander away from just the word "chocolatey," although this is certainly a valid way to describe an aroma or flavor. Due to the tropical origin of the cocoa bean, chocolate can have all kinds of interesting tropical notes. The process of roasting the beans will also heavily influence taste and smell. Fruits, Spices, Nuts, Coffee, and Flowers can all be present in an aroma, as can other things, like Leather, Smoke, Earth, Oak, or Alcohol. Almost anything is possible. Take several deep breaths through your nose close to and away from the chocolate, and make note of what scents come through for you.
Finally - take a piece, small enough to comfortably rest on your tongue and large enough to let all the flavors emerge and evolve on the palate. Place it in your mouth and allow it to melt between your tongue and the roof of your mouth, while breathing gently through your nose. Flavors can and should change from beginning to middle to the end of the melt, so keep your pen handy. How long is the melt? Flavors will have as wide a range as aromas, so be open to many, many possible descriptions. There may be sweet, sour, salty and bitter aspects all in one chocolate. Another important aspect of tasting is the mouth feel - literally what the chocolate feels like in your mouth. Here again is some vocabulary you can use, but don't feel limited by it: Clean, Cloying, Crisp, Delicate, Dense, Dry, Dusty, Light, Greasy, Gritty, Heavy, Moist, Sandy, Sharp, Smooth, Soft, Sticky, Thick, Thin, Velvety and Waxy. When the chocolate is gone, is there an aftertaste? Does it linger or disappear quickly?
Don't forget there is plenty of room for opinion. What do you like/dislike about a bar? Some people will truly enjoy a tobacco note and others will not. Some tasters will form part of a chocolate's score based on opinion alone.
A note on cocoa content: the percentage indicated on each bar reveals what percent of the ingredients came from the cocoa bean itself. This includes the cocoa mass or liquor, the part of the bean than lends the characteristic brown color, and the cocoa butter, which lends texture - and both contribute to flavor. Because the percent comes from two components, two different bars with the same percentage can have different blends of these components: one 70% bar could have 30% cocoa butter and 40% cocoa mass, and another 70% bar could have 20% cocoa butter and 50% cocoa mass. Therefore, don't be afraid to try different percentage bars across brands. You may not typically like 85% cocoa content, but maybe one brand will have the right blend for you. Think of this as you compare 60% to 70 and 99%. The range is almost infinite, and so are your options. Is one necessarily more bitter than the other, or is it just less sweet or more intense?
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Vegan & Dairy Free Chocolate
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Vegan and Dairy Free Chocolate
I have a vegan coworker here at Cioccolato, and
she does not sit sadly around the shop surrounded by things she cannot
enjoy. There are chocolates here that are very distinctly off limits to
vegans, like milk chocolate and cream centers, but we also carry some
of the world's finest dark chocolate bars, and although not always
labeled as such, (because they are imported and European markets are
not yet subject to the same strict labeling laws and practices that are
in place here in the states) they are entirely suitable for vegans and the lactose intolerant.
If you are
highly sensitive to dairy, you will need to check labels for caveats
like "processed on equipment shared by..." and "may contain traces
of..." - which warn of the potential of microscopic levels of
other ingredients. Producers of fine chocolate will want you to achieve
the desired taste they have crafted for you, and will go to lengths to
ensure that your chocolate experience is free of unintended flavors or
ingredients, even though they may be legally obligated to include such
warnings.
Dark chocolate bars of a lesser quality (often cheaper and
mass-produced) may contain ingredients unfriendly to vegans and those
allergic to dairy, like lactose and even milk fat. You're probably used
to checking labels if these issues concern you, but a rule of thumb I
would suggest is this: the shorter the ingredients list, the better.
Less information to sort out, and greater likelihood of higher quality
chocolate. Even flavored dark chocolate bars should only have one or
two extra ingredients, like orange bits, coffee, salt, spices, nuts, etc. (all still vegan friendly!)
A
good chocolate shop (or website) should be able to provide accurate
ingredient information promptly upon request, whether they make their
own chocolate or sell someone else's. Don't hesitate to call ahead, ask
at the shop, or send an email.
Ultimately it will likely be
easier and more cost-effective to seek out a purveyor of fine
chocolates than a specialty vegan shop - or if you have both available
to you, you simply have more chocolate options. A win-win situation if
I ever heard of one
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